When I first got into woodworking, I thought glue was glue. Then I met the wall of Titebond bottles at the hardware store and suddenly felt like I needed a chemistry degree. Titebond I, II, III, and then a bunch of specialty versions… it can get confusing fast. The good news is the differences are actually pretty straightforward once you break them down.
Titebond Version Differences
Titebond I is the standard indoor wood glue. It has strong bonding power, but its biggest limitation is that it is not water resistant. Because of that, you should keep it strictly indoors. It also is not considered food safe for items like cutting boards, serving utensils, or salad bowls.
It does have good strength for furniture that will live in a climate-controlled space, but compared to II and III, its tensile strength is noticeably lower. Most woodworkers eventually move past it simply because the upgrades in II and III are so worth it.
Titebond II is a big step up. It is water resistant, which makes it appropriate for indoor and limited outdoor use. Think things like kitchen tools, outdoor picture frames, or anything that might occasionally get wet but won’t be sitting out in the rain permanently.
It is food safe once fully cured, so many cutting boards are glued with Titebond II. Just be aware that it has a relatively short open time, meaning it starts to set quickly. If you are doing a complex glue-up with a lot of parts, the fast setup can feel a little frantic.
Strength-wise, Titebond II is significantly stronger than Titebond I, which is one reason many people use it as their everyday go-to.
Titebond III is the heavy-duty option. It is fully waterproof, safe for indoor and outdoor projects, and also food safe, making it a favorite for cutting boards, outdoor furniture, and anything that needs maximum durability.
One of its biggest advantages is its longer open time. If you have a complicated glue-up with lots of clamps, dominoes, mortise-and-tenon joints, or panel work, the extra breathing room really helps. Some woodworkers complain about a bit of glue-line creep, but in practice, many people never experience it, especially if the joints are tight and the clamps are applied correctly.
Titebond III also has very high tensile strength, right up there with Titebond II and well above Titebond I.
Cost Differences
Technically, each step up the ladder is a little more expensive. In real life, especially when you’re buying a quart or gallon at a time, the price difference is tiny compared to the overall cost of a project. When you think about the price of hardwoods, hardware, and finishes, an extra few dollars for better glue is hardly noticeable.
A Fun Bonus Observation
This one always makes me laugh, but it’s true: some woodworkers swear that Titebond smells better than competing glues. I don’t know if that’s a scientific endorsement, but it’s certainly a passionate one.